A-Z Guidebook: To Üsküdar by Boat in Istanbul

U is for Üsküdar

Having moved six times in the past 10 years, with four of them international moves, it’s often the simpler things in life that I miss about a place – besides the people we’ve met and befriended.

One such fondness from nearly three years of living in Istanbul is quickly crossing from Europe to Asia in 10 minutes via the iconic yellow-trimmed white vapur (ferry boats). Walking from our apartment in the Beşiktaş neighborhood past all the local stores, we picked up the vapur from the iskele located along the Bosphorus. Once we boarded the boat, the Bosphorus breeze started blowing in my blonde hair. Seagulls chased us, being the scavengers that they are, begging for lil nibbles from other passengers. If you have time, you can even buy a glass of Turkish tea on board.

The quickest way to cross from Europe to Asia is to take the vapur from Beşiktaş to Üsküdar. Boats depart nearly every 10 minutes during the day, so it’s easy to do.

Üsküdar is not a typical neighborhood you would visit as a tourist, necessarily. It’s a more traditional neighborhood with older ladies wearing long trench coats and headscarves going about their normal day-to-day activities. Üsküdar is almost like a village the middle of the giant megalopolis. With just a quick boat ride, you can plunge yourself into a very culturally different atmosphere from the touristic side of the city. It’s a quick trip that I definitely recommend!

 Of course, I couldn't resist having my own glass of Turkish tea while admiring the Kız Kulesi and the city's minaret-studded skyline. Gorgeous!

After looking through some old photos, I’d almost forgotten that Üsküdar is one of the best places to see the Kız Kulesi (Maiden's Tower) – the city’s legendary lighthouse in the Bosphorus. Once you exit the boat dock on the Asian side, follow the coastal road in a southerly direction, walking for 10 minutes or so. Eventually, you’ll find an area filled with benches and Turkish waiters serving up copious amounts of tea.  

This is what I miss – simple moments like this one that I took for granted when I lived in Istanbul.

What do you miss from places you’ve lived before?

I’m linking this post to the monthly travel guide link up organized by Fiona, a fellow Australian blogger, at Tiffin Bite Sized Food Adventures. Each month features a new letter of the alphabet. This month is the letter “U.” Please pop on over to Fiona’s blog to read more travel stories or feel free to link up your own!

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A-Z Guidebook: Ferry Ride to Kadıköy in Istanbul

K is for Kadıköy

To me, a ferry ride is a brief escape from the world. A chance to feel the cool, salty breeze on my face. A moment to watch the seagulls chase the ferry and admire the fading shoreline.

When we lived in Istanbul, taking the ferry from our neighborhood of Beşiktaş to Kadıköy was one of my favorite things to do. During these brief 20 minutes, I felt transported to a different world – a beautiful, exotic world so different from my own upbringing in the Midwest of the U.S.

Every day, barring bad weather and government closures, the iconic white and yellow Şehir Hatları ferry boats crisscross the Bosphorus Straight and will even take you all the way to the Princes Islands. The ferries cross between Beşiktaş and Kadıköy and back again twice an hour. Day time trips between the two neighborhoods is perfect, but unfortunately, the ferries stop service long before your going out hours are up and you’re stuck taking a dolmuş (a shared minivan taxi) to either side.

Once you arrive in Kadıköy, you can enjoy a pleasant walk along the Bosphorus shoreline or head straight to the pedestrian-friendly market area. Guess where I usually ended up?

In the market area, you’ll find dozens of stall holders and shop owners touting fresh fish, seasonal fruits and veggies, dried fruits, honey, nuts, cheese, baklava and more. You’ll even find the odd sheeps’ head, offal and foreign pork products for sale (a must for any displaced expat)

If you’re in the mood for lunch or dinner, head over to Çiya, a fantastic local spot which has three cafés/restaurants on Güneşli Bahçe Sokak. I visited this popular eatery many times while I lived in Istanbul and during my visits. The Turkish food features typical homemade goodies such as lentil soup, meat casseroles, mezzes and kebabs.

Just thinking about Çiya has my mouth watering! Hopefully, we’ll be visiting and eating here again later this year!

When you visit Istanbul, don’t miss out taking the ferry ride to Kadıköy and exploring this bustling neighborhood.

I’m linking this post to the monthly travel guide link up organized by Fiona, a fellow Australian blogger, at Tiffin Bite Sized Food Adventures. Each month features a new letter of the alphabet. This month is the letter “K.” Please pop on over to Fiona’s blog to read more travel stories!

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Reflections on Life in Istanbul

With a new year beginning, I cannot help but reflect on the previous year and our former expat life in Istanbul.

With the current political turmoil happening in Turkey, I’m constantly thinking about our good friends and what the future may hold. I worry. The Turkish lira is at an all-time low. The government kicked off the new year with hefty tax increases on alcohol, cigarettes andfuel. And you must be careful about what you say on Twitter; and, heaven forbid if you wave a shoebox in the air! Every day, I read something more ridiculous in the news.

In some ways, I am relieved we are no longer living in Istanbul. My husband’s salary would have been drastically reduced as a result of the lira weakening while the cost of going out to eat and drink would have increased. During the three years we lived there, our rent had increased by 20 percent. If we hadn’t moved to Warsaw when we did, we would have needed to find a new apartment anyway. Our life is easier and less expensive here.

Yep, I'm still in love with this crazy, congested city! 

When I returned for visits in July and September, Istanbul’s traffic seemed to only have gotten worse. Traffic jams started at 3 p.m. and would last until 8 or 9 p.m. Just a week ago, it took my friends nearly four hours to get from the Ataturk Airport to Bostancı on the Asian side. I do NOT miss the traffic! Now, it only takes me about 30 minutes to get everywhere I want in Warsaw.

But I do miss my friends, most of all! We made some amazing friends with Americans, Canadians, a French couple and with several Turks. To me, the good friends we made is what made Istanbul special.

Our going-away party in March 2013 in Istanbul.

Our friends, Ken and Earl, former owners of Denizen Coffee, hosted our goodbye party. I miss these guys!

Christmas 2012 in Istanbul with my girlfriends.

Together, we celebrated Thanksgiving, Christmas, birthdays and more together. We went on trips to Konya, N.Cyprus, Safranbolu and CundaAdası together. I’m still trying to cultivate those same kind of friendships in our new city. It takes time.

Let's just say our last night in Istanbul as residents included lots of Turkish raki, wine and mezes at a local meyhane in Taksim.

I miss seeing the Bosphorus. There’s something magical about drinking a çay along the banks of the Bosphorus and watching the world pass you by. Taking a vapur ride and seeing the city’s minaret-studded skyline never gets old.

On the vapur ride to Kadıköy, you'll pass by the Blue Mosque and Ayasofya.

Breakfast by the Bosphorus in Istanbul.

I miss my weekly visits to the pazar. Turkey’s fresh produce and the abundance of it is like none other where I’ve lived before. Right now, it’s mandalina and nar season in Turkey. Luckily, I have been able to seasonally find fresh Turkish figs and pomegranates at my local grocery stores.

Look for these fresh fruit juice stands throughout Istanbul!

I still miss the pulsating vibrancy and the tantalizing tastes of Eminönü. I think I could have visited this bustling neighborhood every day and always found something new. I cannot wait to visit again during March!

Outside of the Mısır Çarşısı (Egyptian Bazaar) in Istanbul. 

I must stock up on Turkish pul biber during my next visit!

I even miss hearing the call to prayer from the mosques throughout the city. Now, I hear church bells from my balcony in Warsaw.

As I’ve mentioned previously, I am learning to love many things about my new country here in Poland, and I’m finally starting to take Polish lessons this month. (Wish me luck!) I always try to look for the silver lining in any situation. Maybe in time, I’ll be able to wax nostalgic about it as well.

Until then and even despite of the current political situation, Istanbul will always hold a special place in my heart.

Sailing away on the Bosphorus in Istanbul.

(Dear readers, I'll be posting some more blog posts about Istanbul during the next few weeks!)

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Istanbul’s Bridges at Night

The Bosphorus has mesmerized and captivated me many times.

It’s one of the dozens of reasons I keep returning to Istanbul. It’s as if some mystical force keeps pulling me back in; or maybe it’s simply the pure beauty of the Bosphorus.

Whatever the reason, I’ve decided to make another visit to Istanbul later in September. Yesterday, I booked my tickets and then started looking through three years worth of photos since it was a chilly, rainy day here in Warsaw. I realized how much photo editing still remains to be done.

One of the recurrent images in these photos is the city’s bridges – the Bosphorus Bridge, Fatih Sultan Memhet Bridge (the second bridge), Galata Bridge and the lesser known ones that span the Golden Horn. At night, the first two suspension bridges always are lit up with colorful lights ranging from solid colors to a full rainbow. (Hmm...I wonder if the Turkish government will end up banning the bridge’s rainbow colors after the recent debacle around the rainbow-painted steps in the Fındıklı-Cihangir nieghborhood.)

Anyway, you’ll find hundreds of restaurants with prime locations along the water or on the city’s hilltops where you can gaze at the bridges while you eat your Turkish mezes. We often took visitors to Reina and the manmade island of SuAda for their views when we lived in Istanbul. Last year, we also enjoyed a splendid dinner at Ulus 29 for our second wedding anniversary and watched the lights change on the Bosphorus Bridge.

Looking out from SuAda to the Bosphorus Bridge in Istanbul.

It’s interesting to think about how many of my memories end up revolving around the city’s bridges. I never realized it until I started looking through all our photos yesterday.

Vapur rides.

Visits from family and friends.

Special dinners.

Turkish breakfasts on the weekend.

Goodbyes.

So I hope you enjoy my trip down memory lane. Soon, I’ll have some new memories from Istanbul to share with you.

The Bosphorus Bridge at dusk as seen from a park just north of Ortaköy.

The rainbow colors displayed on the Fatih Sultan Memhet Bridge.

Looking out over the Golden Horn from Mikla's rooftop bar.

View of Fatih Sultan Memhet Bridge from Tapasuma Restaurant on the Asian side.

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One Week of Good Eats in Istanbul

No trip to Istanbul would be complete without eating Turkish food and lots of it.

Every day during my trip in July, I met friends for lunch and dinner. They treated me to all the Turkish foods that I miss such as kebabs, mezes galore, ahtapot, balkaymak, gözleme and künefe. I thought I would recap all the delicious foods that I ate into one long post for you. Maybe on your next trip to Istanbul you can visit some of the same restaurants in Istanbul that I did.

From the Old City to the Asian Side

My eating adventure in Istanbul started shortly after my friends, Nicole and Kartal, picked me up from the airport. I had visions of eating Turkish mezes and drinking raki so they took me to Giritli Restoran near Sultanahmet. They had me mesmerized by Giritli’s fixed-price menu that includes bottomless glasses of raki or local wine and mouth-watering mezes. I was overwhelmed by the unique mezes – typical of the Turks who once lived on the island of Crete – especially herb-covered olives with feta and the seaweed.

On Monday afternoon, we tried the infamous profiteroles at Inci Pastanesi’s new location on Mis Sokak. This old school pastry shop has been serving up cream puffs drowned in chocolate sauce for more than 70 years. I honestly don’t see what the fuss is about, but Inci was one of those things I had to try at least once.

On Tuesday morning, I specifically went to the Salı Pazarı (Tuesday Pazar) at 4Levent for the gözleme. This Turkish “quesadilla” with spinach and cheese filling is one of my favorites while my husband prefers the karışık (mixed) version.

After visiting the Museum of Innocence, my girlfriend and I grabbed an afternoon snack of fried mini sigara böreği at the laidback Şimdi Café located off Istiklal Caddesi. I smuggled some yufka back to Poland and plan to make my own sigara böreği at home someday.

For dinner, we went to Gelik in Etiler because it features a splendid meze selection (paid for by the weight) and delicious kebabs. Oddly, we were scolded by our server for not eating all our bread since it was iftar and we had apparently sinned against Allah. Oh well.

For a post-dinner cocktail and magnificent night view, Kartal took us to the fairly new Boaz Bar on the 34^th floor of the Le Meridien Hotel in Etiler. Not surprisingly, cocktails don’t come cheap at 30-35 tl each, but my company and the night views of a city that I love definitely made it worthwhile.

On Wednesday, I had my ridiculously good Turkish Breakfast by the Bosphorus washed down with copious glasses of çay at Kale Café. During the day, I spent time with my older girlfriends at a cute teahouse, Villa Park Çay Bahçesi, in Yeniköy, which is a wonderful place to watch the Bosphorus and gossip.

On Thursday, another girlfriend and I headed to the Grand Bazaar and stopped by my friends at Huzur Café (Yağlıkçılar Cad. In the Cebeci Han) for lunch. The patlıcan soslu and aclılı ezme were prepared just the way they should be, and my patlıcan kebab also was good.

I love these Ikat-pattered pillowcases and fabric that my friend purchased next door. 

On Friday night, Murat and his wife took me for another meze and balik dinner at Galatalı Balık in Suadiye on the Asian side. The three of us finished off a bottle of 70 cl of Yeni Raki. No wonder my head was a bit foggy in the morning, and I didn’t take any photos!

On Saturday morning, we entertained my friend’s two-and-a-half-year-old daughter by taking her to Tarihi Çınaraltı Aile Çay Bahçesi in Çenkelköy. This quaint, always packed teahouse allows you to bring your own food as long as you order çay and perhaps some menemen. Buy some Turkish börek from the corner store, eat and then feed the fish the leftover bread. After breakfast, we walked along the Bosphorus for awhile. I miss these gorgeous sea views!

After strolling past the Kuleli Military School, we decided to turn back. Murat said he would drive us all the way to Anadolu Kavağı because I had never been there. This tiny village, known for its fish restaurants and Byzantine-Genovese castle ruins, feels likes a world apart from the city. We found another seaside restaurant, ordered two rounds of the best midye tava (fried mussels) I’ve ever had in Turkey and watched the world go by.

Our Turkish waiters, in true fashion, entertained my friends’ daughter by letting her hold (strangle) fish while we relaxed.

"But daddy, I want to eat the fishy!" Sophie exclaimed. 

To cap off my one week in Istanbul, we ate some of the best kebab I had at a nondescript, sort of divey café in Bostancı called Adana Öz Asmaaltı Kebap, which received stellar reviews by Istanbul Eats. We ordered Adana kebab, ciğer (liver) and çöp şiş (tiny nuggets of roasted lamb). Even though we were stuffed, Murat surprised me by ordering my favorite Turkish dessert - künefe. Good friends and good food, that’s all a girl needs.

After eating like this for a week in Istanbul, you easily can see why I gained a kilo on this trip! But it was worth every calorie!

What are your must-eat Turkish foods in Turkey?

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Why I Still Love Istanbul & You Should Too

Having just spent a week in my beloved Istanbul, I can reassure you that it’s definitely worth visiting even right now.

Tourism in Turkey seems to have declined sharply, especially in Istanbul, since the events revolving around the Gezi Park protests started in late May. I saw signs of this stillness nearly everywhere I went on the European side. (For another first-hand account, please see this July 18 blog post by Turkish travel writer Pat Yale: Silence Falls on Sultanahmet.)

Istiklal Street at night was eerily quiet. Usually packed cafés and restaurants were half filled (if they were so lucky) with hungry people. My six girlfriends and I had the normally-packed, reservation-only Sensus Wine Bar near Galata Tower practically to ourselves.

A very quiet Istiklal Street in Istanbul.

I hung out in Taksim on last Monday afternoon and evening and for about five hours on Tuesday afternoon. No problems. I will mention there was more police presence up by the square, but that’s all I saw both days. However, on Saturday nights, Taksim is best avoided as the Turkish police still get tear gas happy. 

Here's an afternoon view of Taksim Square taken near Gezi Park, overlooking the construction.

One of my girlfriends stayed six nights at a boutique hotel near Galatasaray for only 35 euros per night compared to the normal 129 euros per night. She was told she could stay as late as she wanted when she requested a late check-out as the hotel was dead. Because there are fewer tourists, you may get an unheard of hotel rate like my friend!

Even if it is summertime and Ramazan, I have never seen Istanbul this quiet in the three years that I lived here!

An afternoon visit to the Grand Bazaar yielded the same results. My kebab guy was ecstatic to see me. “Where have you been abla?” He served us delicious portions of patlıcan soslu and aclılı ezme on the house.

Later on, I got a steal of deal on a beautiful Kurdish kilim. His friends wished him well on his sale. “Inshallah” my girlfriend heard the Turkish rug dealer say as we returned to his third-generation family store. I hadn’t planned to buy a kilim, but I couldn’t resist the deal.

I loved both of these kilims, but I chose and purchased the one on the right.

I’m saddened to see Istanbul in this state. These small shopkeepers don’t deserve this treatment that has befallen them as a result of the actions by the Turkish government. Less adventurous tourists are afraid to travel here as they see images of the Turkish police reacting haphazardly with water cannons and tear gas in the Taksim area.

I’m certainly not happy with the Turkish government and their ridiculous responses to the protesters. However, I won’t get into that rant right now.

But I do want to remind you why you should visit and love Istanbul as much as I do!

7 Reasons to Love Istanbul

Bosphorus

The changing colors of the Bosphorus is one of the many things I miss about Istanbul. The early mornings can turn the waters a hard, steel gray and then a sparkling, brilliant shade of blue or turquoise in the afternoon and even a murky black as the day wears on. Find a café and enjoy the cool sea breeze, or take a vapur ride along the Bosphorus.

A view of the Bosphorus from the Bostanci neighborhood on the Asian side of the city.

Eminönü

Regular readers know how much I love visiting this bustling neighborhood. On my first full day in Istanbul, I paid a visit to Bilge, my favorite spice girl at Ucuzcular in the Mısır Çarşısı (Spice Bazaar). This is THE place to stock up on high quality Turkish spices. I spent 150 tl on my supplies because I’m not sure when I’ll be back again yet.

Pazar

Every neighborhood in Istanbul hosts a pazar (outdoor market) on different days of the week. This visit, I stopped at the Tuesday 4Levent pazar (a 5-minute walk from the Yenilevent exit at the 4Levent metro stop). I enjoyed a cheese and spinach gözleme as a late breakfast. Going to a pazar gives you a chance to see the local color of the city.

Turkish Food

I could go on and on about the Turkish food I ate on this trip in Istanbul. I’m pretty sure I gained another kilo. How could I turn down my favorite balkaymak or künefe? There were kebabs and mezes galore! I’ll tell you more in another post.

Turkish Hospitality

Even if you aren’t a regular customer, you’re bound to get offered çay as soon as you walk into a shop. From the Spice Bazaar to the Grand Bazaar to my shoe repair guy to my Turkish towel shop, I was offered copious amounts of çay. Even if my Turkish was a little rusty, I enjoyed having conversations here. I miss the welcoming Turkish hospitality.

History

I think one of the things that’s always fascinated me about Istanbul is its long, rich and colorful history. The city is ancient compared to America where I’m from. I still love seeing the city’s historic Byzantine walls, the minarets of the Blue Mosque, the Galata Tower and cobblestone streets. These are things that make Istanbul unique and why tourists come to visit.

Friends

Most importantly, I miss all my friends in Istanbul. I have cried, laughed, lamented over Turkish, traveled, confided in and celebrated with these friends. It’s been difficult moving to a new city and starting the process of making friends all over again. I have a feeling though many of my Istanbul friends will be friends for life. Even if you are a tourist in Istanbul, don’t be surprised if make a Turkish friend or two.

I could go on and on about why I love Istanbul, but you should really see this beautiful city for yourself. The city and its shopkeepers need your support!

(For additional reading, please see this July 20 article in The Guardian: The ongoing Turkish protests have left us enlightened and emboldened.)

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Breakfast by the Bosphorus in Istanbul

One of my favorite weekend activities in Istanbul is having a full Turkish breakfast along the Bosphorus.

During the week, I only make time for a bowl of cereal or yogurt with fresh fruit. But this week on Wednesday morning, I woke up at 6:30 and pushed my kind hosts, Nicole and Kartal, to get up as well so we could have breakfast before they went to work in Istanbul. 

Kartal drove so we arrived at the popular Kale Cafe at Rumelihisari shortly after 7. He took charge of the ordering. My only request was balkaymak that I later practically licked the bowl clean! I love Turkish kaymak!

To me, a full Turkish breakfast is one of the best breakfasts in the world! I love the sliced tomatoes and cucumbers, olives, variety of cheeses, freshly baked breads, copious amounts of çay and perhaps some eggs and sucuk if you are lucky. 

This is just one of the many things I miss about Istanbul!

How could you NOT love this view in Istanbul?

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