Showing posts with label Budapest. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Budapest. Show all posts

Saturday, December 30, 2017

Greetings from Sofia, Bulgaria! We are on the last leg of our holiday trip in Eastern Europe, and I thought I would share a few photos.

We decided to close out the year with a 10-day trip to three capitals – Budapest, Bucharest and Sofia. I think the trip has been a HUGE (bigly/awesome) success, and we really enjoyed Bucharest more than we thought we would.

Since we moved abroad in 2010, we’ve learned it is better to visit our friends and family members in the U.S. at any other time of the year than Christmas. In December, the flights are more expensive, the airports are chaotic, the roads are terrible, and we often have dealt with a ton of snow – like what the U.S. East Coast is getting the brunt of now. To make our expat lives easier, we visit the U.S. either in the spring or the fall. Next year, we might even make two trips as some family members are getting older and we want to spend some precious time with them.

Anyway, our first stop was in Budapest. We visited this lovely city twice in 2014, but haven’t been back until now. Funny enough, friends we met in Istanbul were spending Christmas there, so we met up to celebrate an expat Christmas together. We also were able to see some of hubby’s former Warsaw colleagues.
After three sunny days in Budapest, we flew to Bucharest with a 1-hour layover in Warsaw. We had just enough time to enjoy a plate of pierogies at the airport and buy some Polish kabanos sausages and Wedel chocolates.

Exploring Bucharest over two days meant discovering buildings that reminded us of the Barouque architecture of Paris, a few hints of Ottoman and Byzantine architecture and plenty of ugly, concrete Communist blocks too. Bucharest is definitely a city of contrasts. I’ll have to share more photos soon after edits. Also, Bucharest had a lovely and much-bigger-than-expected Christmas market!
From Bucharest, we decided to take a 10-hour train across the border to visit Sofia, Bulgaria. Buying the train ticket and the experience onboard was an adventure in itself, and a story I’ll need to tell in more detail later. At least we had a bag filled with wine and snacks for the journey.
One of the older Romanian trains. Luckily, this one was not our train. ;)
Sofia seems to have more Ottoman-era touches and plenty of Orthodox churches. Here a church, there a church, everywhere a church. Also, the city has a prettier feel than Bucharest…I’m guessing it wasn’t bombed as heavily as Bucharest was during WWII.
Inside Sveta Nedelya, an ornate Orthodox Church in Sofia.
I paid 5lev so I could take photos inside.
I’ll close for now as hubby is getting inpatient with me dealing with social media while we are on vacation. Ha ha!

Wherever you are, I wish you a wonderful New Year filled with adventure!
Joy


My Traveling Joys

Friday, June 14, 2013

I wish I had started my days earlier in Budapest so I could have consumed more pastries.

I’d heard about the city’s multitude of fancy coffee houses, but still I was unprepared for the amazing pastries and lovely places I encountered. During the 19th century, at its peak, Budapest had more than 700 coffee houses. Now, that’s a lot of coffee!

My first stop was at the Alexandra Bookstore, a modern-looking bookstore cum wineshop, until you ascend the escalator to Lotz Terem Café on the second floor. Your eyes immediately gravitate toward the breathtaking ceiling, painted in a bold Renaissance style by Károly Lotz in 1910. (His paintings also decorate the rooms of the Parliament building.)
I could imagine plunking myself down in one of the café’s armchairs, nestled in a corner with a good book and a strong latté and spending a whole afternoon here. Nearby, a handsome Hungarian man was playing classical piano music. This place is the ultimate bookstore!

At Lotz, I ordered a latté and a slice of the infamous Hungarian Dobos torte, a five-layer sponge cake with chocolate buttercream and garnished with a hard caramel glaze. The cake was invented by Hungarian confectioner József C. Dobos, introduced at the National General Exhibition of Budapest in 1885 and presented to the Emperor of Austria Franz Joseph I and his wife. Now, this cake is definitely one for royalty!
On my second day strolling around Budapest’s Fisherman’s Bastion and Buda Castle, I dragged hubby to the nearby historical, quaint coffee house of Ruszwurm. This is one of the city’s oldest pastry shops, opened in 1827 by Hungarian confectioner Ferenc Schwabl. The interior of this cozy and always crowded shop, named after its owner Vilmos Ruszwurm, from 1884 to 1922, even has some of the original 1840s Empire-style furniture.

Ruszwurm isn’t a place to linger long as plenty of other tourists are waiting to grab a seat and sample another decadent bite of Dobos torte. However, I think it’s worth waiting for a table to taste a delicious bite of history.
A decadent chocolate cake for hubby and another slice of Dobos torte for me at Ruszwurm in Budapest.
My most expensive coffee house visit was at The New York Café (New York Kávéház) located on a picturesque boulevard inside the luxurious Boscolo Budapest Hotel (formerly the New York Palace). One of my Istanbul friends, Elaine, had urged me to go to this café, telling me that I would love it. She was right!

As soon as I walked inside, I took a step back in time and was greeted by gorgeous frescoes on the ceiling, gilded columns and stunning crystal chandeliers. This café, originally built by the New York Life Insurance Company as its local head office in 1894, once served as the local hangout for Hungarian writers, newspaper editors, poets and artists. Luckily, the building survived World War II, Communist rule, a sporting goods shop conversion, neglect and finally was restored to its original splendor in 2006 and converted into the Boscolo Budapest Hotel.
Interior of The New York Café in Budapest.
Since I was solo, I treated myself to a fancy lunch of mixed greens with grilled rabbit, a glass of Hungarian white wine and of course, dessert, a sublime piece of “crunchy nut cake.” This sweet confection contained layers of a hazelnut dacquiose cake, a praline mousse and caramel glaze – at least that’s what I determined. This is the type of dessert I would have made at any of the restaurants I previously worked at in the U.S.
Service is a bit harried here, but I took it all in stride and enjoyed my 90 minutes of people watching and leisurely lunch. The atmosphere and delectable dessert was well worth the 10,000 HUF ($45) price tag!

My only complaint is the nearby table of five older women that only ordered pasta and coffee drinks. If you’re going to visit the New York Café , you damned well better order dessert. You’d be crazy not to!

Budapest has dozens of coffee houses throughout the city, but these were three I visited and would return to in a second.

Locations:
Alexandra Bookstore, Andrássy út 39, near the Oktogon metro stop, Budapest

The New York Café (New York Kávéház), Erzsébet körút 9-11, Budapest

Ruszwurm, Szentháromság St 7, near the Buda Castle, Budapest
 The amazing pastry display case at the Lotz Terem Café in Budapest.

Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Imagine sitting in a comfortably hot 100-year-old thermal pool while snowflakes fall softly around you.

That’s what we did in mid-February when we first visited Budapest. No visit to this lovely Eastern European city is complete without a stop at one of its infamous therapeutic baths, in particular at Széchenyi Thermal Baths. This bath, first built in 1913 and expanded in 1927, is one of the largest spa complexes in Europe. There are three outdoor pools, 15 indoor pools and 10 sauna/steam rooms – all with varying temperatures.
Romantic and steamy is what the Széchenyi Thermal Baths looked like in February.
In May, we returned to Budapest and paid another visit to Széchenyi Thermal Baths for two reasons. First of all, you can’t help but enjoy yourself here. The buildings are gorgeous, built in the neo-Baroque style as much of the city itself, and the baths are relaxing and a little romantic. Secondly, we wanted to improve upon some of the first mistakes we made.

So here are my Top 10 Tips to Enjoy Széchenyi Thermal Baths in Budapest:
1. Rent a cabin instead of a locker. If you are a couple or with good friends, this makes the most sense as far as sharing space together. We also felt our goods were secured safely behind the automatic locked door.

2. Bring your own towels, swimsuits and flip flops. During our first visit, we forgot to bring towels and flip flops. We had to wait in a long line for 30 minutes to get towels and then were told we could pay only in cash. (Who carries cash in their swimsuit?) Towel rental costs 4500 HUF (about $20) each. Be sure to return the towels in the same long line to refund your money. OR skip the lines and bring your own Turkish beach towels which is what we did the second time. Our feet simply suffered on the cold floors.

Another tip: bring a plastic bag to store your wet suits and towels in after you’re done.
3. If you rent a cabin, you will receive a plastic watch that you must scan on a small box located on the wall on the first floor. The scanner will give you the number of your cabin, which also could be located on the second floor. This was confusing at first because we didn’t know where to go and no staff was around to assist us.

4. Skip the Thai massage. We thought a couple massage by two Thai women would be relaxing, but then we both ended up being twisted into pretzels and aching afterwards. Save your money for a special dinner instead.

5. Allow at least two hours of relaxation time at the baths. Honestly, if the sun's rays were warmer, I could have stayed there all afternoon.
6. Explore. Wander around the different pools and see which ones you like best. We found the indoor ones to be a bit chilly for our liking. I guess the idea is you take a dip in the hot thermal pools and then cool off in the others. I didn’t try the sauna/steam rooms as I can only tolerate them for about 10 minutes, and one boasted temps of 60 C (140 F). Hot momma!

7. In the summer months, you can avoid long lines at the entrance by buying vouchers at the tourist information offices around the city. You also receive a 10 percent discount if you have the Budapest Card.
8. Don’t drink beer in the pools. We were able to sneak in one beer each before we saw the guards making rounds and yelling at the mainly British stag groups near us.

9. Bring your own shampoo and other toiletries as you won’t find anything here. I wanted to clean up quickly before hopping back on the metro, and I needed to dry my hair since it was little on the cooler side outside.

10. Most importantly, relax and have fun. My husband and I spent two hours lazily floating by each other and people watching. The baths were exactly what the doctor ordered!

Have you been to any of the thermal baths in Budapest?
 
Location:
Széchenyi Thermal Baths ( Take the metro to the Széchenyi stop).
1146 Budapest Állatkerti körút 9-11
+36 1 363 3210

Friday, May 31, 2013

Everywhere we travel, I always try and stop by farmers’ markets, especially if they are outdoors.

In fact, I should do another post about all the world markets we have visited in addition to the Turkish pazar photos that I regularly share.

Last weekend, while my husband worked in Budapest, I explored the city and re-visited the 117-year-old Great Market Hall (Központi Vásárcsarnok). This three-storied market, located on Fővám Tér in the 9th district, is the largest and oldest indoor market in Budapest. The brick building was designed and built by Hungarian architect Samu Pecz around 1896.
Many of the stalls were filled with spring produce such as asparagus in white and green colors, strawberries, green and red onions, rhubarb, greenhouse tomatoes and bright red cherries. I also found bags of spicy and sweet paprika, jars of local honey, tins of goose liver, barrels of pickles, bottles of Palinka (Hungarian fire water or fruit-flavored brandy) and lots of links of Hungarian sausage. (I certainly have moved to a pork-centric part of the world!)

I weaved in and out of the bustling afternoon crowds, taking photos as I went along. I tried to stop by one of the lángos stands (a deep-fried flat bread made of potato-based dough) for a late lunch, but the crowds were too pushy at 1:30 p.m. At least, I enjoyed one of these Hungarian specialties in February when we first visited Budapest. If you go, go early!
Here's the Hungarian lángos I ate back in February. Delicious!
Last time, I stocked up on bags of morel and oyster mushrooms (so cheap), both versions of ground paprika, a jar of chestnut honey, as well as Pick (brand) csipos (spicy) sausage and jars of Eros Piszta - a super spicy paprika spread, which goes great in soups.

If you are a local Hungarian, the market is also THE place where you would buy freshly baked breads, local cheeses, cured meats, chicken, fish, beef and pork.

But as a tourist at the Great Market Hall, I recommend simply savoring all the sights, smells and sounds. And just remember, drinking is allowed as early as 10 a.m. here as I saw many people doing last time.

Jó étvágyat! (Bon appétit in Hungarian)
 
Last but not least, you gotta have a photo of the pork butcher!