An Asian Way with Polish Chanterelle Mushrooms

I’ve been loving the summer season of Chanterelle mushrooms here in Warsaw!

Of course, I buy my Polish kurki at Hala Mirowska.

However, sometimes I get in a rut of how to cook these delicious, golden mushrooms known as kurek, kurki or kurka in Polish. The traditional Polish recipes often feature a lot of heavy ingredients like cream and butter. I wanted a healthier option.

Amongst my vast cookbook collection, I stumbled upon a 2011 August edition of Saveur Magazine that featured several recipes for different types of mushrooms. I decided to adapt Saveur’s recipe for a special Chinese dish called Jiyou Jun Bao Ji (Clay-Pot Chicken Stew with Chanterelles). I love Asian flavors and this recipe was just the inspiration I needed!

Instead of a clay pot, I used my trusty Le Creuset Dutch oven, but I’m sure any large cooking pot would work as well for cooking this scrumptious stew.

This dish is full of the rich Asian flavors of ginger, soy sauce, chilies and sesame oil that we both enjoy at home. Luckily, hubby is not picky and pretty much enjoys whatever I cook for us.

If you enjoy Asian flavors like us and find a batch of Chanterelle mushrooms at your local market, I’m sure you’ll enjoy this recipe too!

Smacznego!

All the fresh ingredients ready to go.

My finished dish of Asian-Inspired Chicken Stew with Polish Chanterelle Mushrooms.

Asian-Inspired Chicken Stew with Polish Chanterelles

Serves: 4

Ingredients:

500      g.                     Chanterelle mushrooms/mixed mushrooms, cleaned and trimmed in half if large

200      g.                     ham (I used Polish baleron), chopped small

1          Tablespoon      ginger, minced

1          Tablespoon      garlic, minced

1          Tablespoon      soy sauce

1          ea.                    jalapeno or Serrano chili, sliced in half

4          ea.                    green onions, cut in 1-inch pieces

4          tsp.                  granulated sugar

1          ea.                    large onion, chopped small

500      ml.                   chicken stock

1          kilo                  chicken legs and thighs

Optional:         4, small bok choy, sliced down the center, and chopped into 2-inch pieces

Cooked rice or brown rice vermicelli noodles for serving.

Dipping sauce:

4          Tablespoons    soy sauce

1          Tablespoon      cilantro, finely chopped

2          teaspoon          toasted sesame oil

2          teaspoon          ginger, finely minced

¼         teaspoon          ground black pepper

1. In a small bowl, whisk together the dipping sauce ingredients and set aside.

2. In a large Dutch oven  or pot, place all the stew ingredients. Bring to a boil. Cover, and reduce heat to medium-low so stew is just simmering. Cook for about 30 minutes.

3. Then, add the bok choy. Let the stew cook for another 10 minutes until the chicken is tender and cooked through.

4. Serve the stew over rice or noodles. Drizzle the dipping sauce over the top, at least that’s how we did it.

5. This stew works great as leftovers, but you might want to add a bit more chicken stock when reheating it.

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My Favorite Market in Warsaw

At least once or twice a week, I trek down to my local market in Warsaw so I can handpick my own fruits and vegetables.

I detest the major grocery stores here except to buy dry goods like cleaning supplies, cereal or canned goods. I’d much rather buy my fresh produce from a small, local vendor than some corporate giant.

To some, Hala Mirowska may look a little rough around the edges as you’ll find its exterior riddled with bullet holes from WWII. But to me, the building’s history is just part of its charm.

Originally constructed between 1899 and 1901, Hala Mirowska functioned as Warsaw’s largest market until the outbreak of the Warsaw Uprising in 1944. The building has survived bullets and a raging fire and even served as bus depot following the war, but today you’ll find that the “hall” offers a one-stop shopping experience. In fact, Hala, as I affectionately call it, reminds me of my beloved pazars in Istanbul.

Here, you’ll find more than 50 stalls selling fresh meat, fruits, vegetables, sauerkraut, Polish sausages, yogurt, baked goods, bread, nuts, quinoa, spices and more. You can even get your watch repaired, your shoes shined or a pair of pants hemmed. You’ll find cheap dresses, shoes and even women’s underwear. There’s a small kitchen store with odds and ends including a great selection of canning jars and baking pans.

There’s the egg lady on the corner who sells GMO-free and organic eggs. She’s finally warmed up to me and smiles when I ask her for my “dziesięć jaja” even though my Polish grammar is incorrect.

For the best market experience, you’ll definitely want to speak some Polish, but there are several stalls where the younger vendors do speak English. Of course, a smile, hand gestures and a simple “proszę” go a long way.

Around the corner, I stop at the meat lady for some of the best Polish kielbasa, cured meats and even her own Polish prosciutto. I’m guessing she’s about 70 years old, but still has a feisty spirit and makes everything from scratch with the help of her daughter. She's awesome!

The summer months are the best time to visit Hala Mirowska. In June, strawberries and blueberries arrive. By July, all the berries are in season and it’s wonderful.

In August, you’ll still find blueberries, raspberries, red, white and black currants, gooseberries, apricots, peaches and the beginning of apple season. For vegetables, you can buy tomatoes galore, colored sweet peppers, eggplants, broccoli, cauliflower, etc.

Summer bounty! I just took this photo yesterday!

Late summer strawberries in August.

In September and maybe part of October, if you’re lucky, watch out for the Polish mushrooms. The Poles go crazy over their mushrooms, and rightfully so, as they are quite tasty! You’ll find lines of people even outside the market selling jars and plastic containers of mushrooms of all varieties. Maybe this fall I’ll figure out what all the mushrooms are!

These mushrooms make the best soups! 

Not all the produce is locally grown. From what I understand, there is a produce wholesale market where the vendors can buy their goods and then sell them at the market. During the winter months, you’ll find root vegetables and lots of imported produce such as limes, eggplants, berries and more, which of course, you’ll pay a premium for then.

But I’d still rather shop at my local market any day!

Where is your favorite market to buy fresh produce?

Location: Plac Mirowski 1

Poland is the largest producer of apples in Europe. Earlier this month, Russia slapped an embargo on Polish produce in retaliation against Western sanctions. However, Poles are fighting back with an “#eatapples” campaign online.

Homemade Polish dill pickles are delicious!

The Damas stall, number 17, sells a variety of Mediterranean goods such as legumes, bulgur, couscous, hummus, pita bread, baklava and more.

As you approach Hala Mirowska, the first thing you will notice are the plethora of flower stalls outside.

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Polish Pisanki & Decorating Easter Eggs in Poland

Living as an expat in a new country opens your eyes to new traditions and experiences.

Last year, we were greeted with Easter Snow Bunnies near our hotel on our first night in Poland. We didn’t know about this tradition! Luckily, this year, Easter falls later in April (Sunday, April 20^th) and our weather is warm and spring-like.

 An Easter Snow Bunny on April 1, 2013, in Warsaw. 

This past week, I just learned about the colorful tradition of Polish pisanki, which are real eggs usually decorated with melted beeswax and then dyed for Easter. The pisanki I’ve seen so far here in Warsaw are exceptionally beautiful! Take a look:

Polish pisanki are named after the verb verb 'pisać' which in contemporary Polish means 'to write' yet in old Polish also meant 'to paint.' Yesterday, I watched a woman demonstrate how to make Polish pisanki as part of my expat group called International Women’s Group of Warsaw. She heated the beeswax over a candle, dipped the stylus tool into the wax and “wrote” on the egg making various designs. Later, she dyed the egg, then removed the wax by heating it over the candle and rubbing off the wax with a towel. Thus, revealing the intricate design and pattern on the egg.

There are even various types of Polish pisanki, based on the technique and preparation used. For example, at my favorite farmer’s market, Hala Mirowska, I bought a basketful of malowanki – hand-painted Easter eggs. Luckily, these are wooden and not fragile real ones!

Another variety is called drapanki – solid-color eggs with a design scratched onto the surface after they are dyed. I only bought one of these because drapanki cost 20-30 pln ($6-10) each instead of the 7 pln ($2.50) I paid for the handmade pisanki made with beeswax and dye. (Meanwhile on Etsy, you’ll pay upwards of 70 pln (about $23) PER egg if you want to buy outside of Poland!)

Lastly, another variety you’ll find is nalepianki – eggs decorated with paper cut-outs or straw. The Polish rooster seems to be a popular motif for these Easter eggs.

Did you know that Polish pisanki are usually made to be given to your family and close friends as a symbolic wish for the gift of life? The eggs can be saved from year to year and sometimes are even blessed at church during the Easter celebrations. I won’t be visiting my family until Christmas, so these pisanki are all mine.

Did you also know there’s even a Muzeum Pisanki in Poland? This small museum in the town of Ciechanowiec, 140 km northeast of Warsaw, is dedicated to the history of Polish Easter eggs and more from Eastern Europe. Hopefully, I can drag hubby here one of these days.

More Polish pisanki for sale at an ornament store on Emilii Plater in Warsaw. 

Meanwhile at home, we simply dyed Easter eggs with some of our colleagues’ children the old-fashioned way – store-bought dye kits! Last weekend, the kids had fun getting their hands messy with dye and putting stickers on the Easter eggs. I’ve been eating a lot of egg salad this week!

Maybe next year, I’ll get a bit more crafty and attempt to make my own Polish pisanki!

To those of you who will celebrate Easter this weekend, Happy Easter!

***Please check out what some of my fellow bloggers have to say about celebrating Easter abroad and at home:

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Blackberry & Chocolate Chip Ice Cream

Before berry season ends, I should share this super delicious summer ice cream recipe with you!

I’ve finally figured how to work my 220v machine so I don’t blow a fuse. That way I can fulfill my marriage vows of making homemade ice cream for my husband at least once a year. He’s one lucky guy, let me tell you!

From one of my favorite foodie blogs, October Farm, I stumbled upon this recipe for blackberry & chocolate chip ice cream on another blog called Gourmandistan, written by a food-loving couple in Kentucky. This recipe caught my eye because the market stalls at Hala Mirowska have been flooded with berries.

This is how I buy my berries and eggs at Hala Mirowska in Warsaw.

I can make only so many berry-flavored vodkas as well as freeze and eat so many berries for breakfast, so of course they must be used in desserts.

I actually love making ice cream and probably could make it in my sleep. I used to make several ice cream batches a day when I worked in restaurants full-time. Now, I only make ice cream as an occasional treat at home.

Homemade ice cream is really worth the effort, especially when there's chocolate involved! I promise! 

Smacznego!

Blackberry & Chocolate Chip Ice Cream
(Adapted from Gourmandistan’s recipe)

Yields: about 1 quart

425      g.         (3 cups)           fresh blackberries, rinsed

Juice from ½                           a lemon

55        g.         (1/4 c.)             granulated sugar

180      ml.       (6 oz.)              milk

110      g.         (1/2 c.)             granulated sugar

Pinch                                       salt

3          ea.                                egg yolks from large eggs

180      ml.       (6 oz.)              heavy cream (I used 36% Polish cream.)

½         tsp.                              vanilla extract

100      g.         (3.5 oz.)           dark chocolate, chopped small

1.         In a small pot, combine the blackberries with the lemon juice and first amount of sugar. Cook over low heat for about 10 minutes until the berries are softened. Then, purée this mixture with a hand stick blender or in a food processor. Strain through a fine-meshed strainer to remove the seeds. Set aside to cool.

2.         In a medium-sized pot, heat the milk, sugar and salt together until the sugar is dissolved.

3.         In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks. Then slowly pour some of the warm milk mixture into the yolks, whisking constantly, then scrape the warmed yolks back into the pot. This is the tempering stage of making a custard...i.e. ice cream in this case.

4.         Cook the custard, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula, until the mixture thickens and coats the spatula, which takes just a few minutes. This stage is known as nappe in French cooking. If using an instant read thermometer, it should read around 170ºF (77ºC). I always do this stage by eyeballing it. If I can run my finger through the custard on the back of the spoon and the lines don’t run together, then the custard is done. Strain.

5.         Let the mixture cool slightly over an ice bath. When cool, add the blackberry puree, heavy cream and vanilla extract. I used my hand stick blender again.

6.         Refrigerate the mixture thoroughly, preferably overnight, then freeze it in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

7.         When your ice cream base is almost done spinning (about 20 minutes later), add the chopped chocolate.

8.         Transfer your homemade ice cream to a plastic container and allow to harden for several hours or overnight in the freezer. (I always sample a spoonful or two before I freeze it!)

Note: We like dark chocolate, but we found the 90% chocolate bar to be too bitter. Next time, I’d stick with using 60 or 70% dark chocolate.

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Expat Life: 4 Months Living in Warsaw

Last week, we experienced record heat waves in Poland. Temperatures across the country topped up to 40 C (104 F).

Such a strange contrast from my first week in Warsaw, and six inches of snow covered the ground in APRIL!

We’ve been living as expats in Warsaw a little over four months. Recently, several friends and readers have asked what’s Warsaw like and how we are adjusting. I’ll admit that the first two months were rough. I shed quite a few tears, and I was depressed.

But now I can see the silver lining of it all. Sure, I still have a bad day now and then just like anyone else. However, I have realized there are many reasons to love living in Warsaw too.

My husband and I recently discussed what we like about living in Warsaw. We feel like we have everything at our fingertips – public transportation, a good location, more international food options, Dr. Pepper and pork – just to name a few things. Besides our family and friends in the U.S., I can’t think of anything else I miss from America anymore.

Top 10 Reasons to Love Living in Warsaw

1. Cost of living – This is one of first factors that attracted us to living in Warsaw. Our cost of living has been cut in half compared to living in Istanbul. Rent, eating out, drinks, international groceries are all much cheaper here. For example, on average, a half liter of Polish beer costs 8-10 zl ($2.50-$3) compared to 8-10 tl ($4.50-$5.20) for an Efes in Istanbul. Doesn’t take long for this stuff to add up!

2. Green spaces – Warsaw is green! According to this study, Warsaw has almost 20,000 hectacres (50,000 American acres) of green spaces and as such has earned the nickname “green city.” In fact, 14 percent of the city’s urban area (7,258 hectacres) is covered by forests – much more than any other European city. Because of all this green space, you constantly see people running, riding bikes and relaxing in the city’s numerous parks.

3. Polish pierogies, piwo and pork – You knew food would be one of my top reasons, right? Polish food is hearty and reminds me of a grandmother’s homecooking. We’ve eaten our fair share of delicious Polish pierogies washed down with half liters of piwo (beer). Piwo was one of the first Polish words I learned. I am almost overwhelmed by the abundance of pork here.

4. Pubs in Parks – The Poles certainly got this idea down pat! As you stroll through the city’s numerous parks, you often will stumble upon a small pub. Our favorite is the Flinstone-like Pub Lolek located in the large Pole Mokotowskie Park. Just park your bike, order some beers and kielbasa and you’re set. We also like the small beer tents set up along the Vistula River.

5. History – After World War II, Warsaw was left in ruins by the Nazis. Nearly 85 percent of the city was destroyed. Then, the country was under harsh Soviet rule for 40+ years. The Poles have endured a lot (too much) and their spirit is one of total perseverance.

This photo shows what Warsaw looked like in 1945 following the war. Devastated!

I love wandering through the restored Old Town area and hanging out in the New Town section. You’ll also see many important reminders of the city’s Jewish history too.  

6. Classical music – I think you could catch a live classical concert every night if you wanted to in Warsaw. Since the city is home to the famous 19^th-century composer Frederic Chopin, classical music plays a big role in life here. I like wandering behind the University of Warsaw where you are bound to hear students practicing classical melodies. On Sundays through Sept. 29, you can catch either the noon or 4 p.m. outdoor piano concerts featuring Chopin’s music at Warsaw’s Royal Łazienki Park. A wonderful free activity! (More info: http://www.estrada.com.pl)

Just look for the large Chopin monument at Warsaw’s Royal Łazienki Park.

7. Renting bikes – In order to get to those free Sunday concerts, we often ride bikes thanks to the city’s convenient rent-a-bike system by NextBike. After paying an initial 10 zl annual fee, we can rent bikes from more than 50 stations around the city. Rentals for less than 20 minutes are free. Warsaw has numerous bike trails and wide sidewalks that are perfect for long bike rides or quick trips down to the river or the market.

Until we moved here, I hadn’t rode bikes much as an adult except for the times my husband has tried to kill me on vacations in Bali, Belize and Bozcaada. However, I have grown to really like biking. We see much more of the city on bikes; not to mention, that they often are quicker and cheaper than other modes of public transport. And when there’s a promise of a beer in the park, what’s not to like?

8. Farmer’s market – I visit my nearby farmer’s market at Hala Mirowska at least twice a week for the freshest Polish produce. I don’t know much Polish yet, so shopping at the market is pretty comical and involves a lot of pointing and smiling. I love having this market just five tram stops away from our apartment!

9. Ease of getting around – Although Warsaw is a large metropolitan city with a 2.7 million population, I find it relatively easy to get around. Much, much easier than Istanbul, thank you very much! Warsaw’s public buses, trams and subways are just easy to use and inexpensive. For 250 zl ($80), I use a 3-month unlimited, refillable transportation pass. 

Also with smart phone apps such as itaxi.pl and jakdojade.pl, with just a click, I can order a taxi or figure out the fastest way to get somewhere via public transportation.

10. International foods – Lastly, we have been impressed with the city’s selection of American burgers and steaks, Vietnamese food and pizza. International food isn’t “Turkified” like it was when we lived in Istanbul, so I actually can eat a decent bowl of pho or bánh mì  sandwich. Now, if only, I could find some authentic Mexican food somewhere.

While it’s taken more time to grow to love Warsaw, with a bit of insatiable curiosity and some patience, I have come to realize it’s a great place to live!

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DIY Red Currant Polish Vodka

Two things that I have in abundance right now are summer berries and Polish vodka.

The stalls at Hala Mirowska (the local farmer’s market) in Warsaw are flooded with red, white and black currants, strawberries, blueberries, green gooseberries, raspberries and cherries. I haven’t been doing as much baking as I should, but I have frozen tons of blueberries and made one batch of wild blueberry-ginger jam.

And thanks to the Poles, vodka – really good vodka – is cheaper than peanuts. A 1 liter bottle of Zubrovka vodka costs about 30 zl ($10 USD).

Since we like our summer drinks, I’ve been playing around with fruit-infused vodkas. In June, when rhubarb was plentiful, I made a batch of rhubarb-thyme vodka and one of rhubarb-strawberry-vanilla vodka. Both vodkas were super refreshing when mixed with tonic water and a splash of lime juice. (I meant to post the recipes, but now rhubarb season sadly is over.)

This weekend, I decided to experiment with red currants. I found dozens and dozens of recipes out there for red currant vodka. Some recipes called for the addition of simple syrup and others required waiting a month for the infusion.

I created my own recipe of sorts after looking around at other recipes. Since the red currants are tart, I muddled them with granulated sugar to kickstart the infusion process.

Now, comes the most difficult part – waiting two weeks until we can sample my red currant vodka!

Next on the summer berry list is making homemade crème de cassis from this recipe.

Smacznego! (Bon appétit in Polish)

Red Currant Polish Vodka

500      ml.                               Zubrovka vodka (or your vodka of choice)

200      g.         (1 ¼ cups)       red currants, rinsed and picked off the stems

100      g.         (1/2 cup)          granulated sugar

1. In a 1-liter cleaned and sterilized jar, combine the sugar and red currants. Muddle or mash together a bit.

2. Top with vodka.

3. Close the lid tightly and keep vodka in a dark, cool place for at least 2 weeks or until the color has left the red currants. Take the jar out and shake it every few days. After two weeks, you can start tasting the vodka to see if it is to your liking.

4. When the taste is to your liking, strain the vodka through cheesecloth or paper towels into a clean jar or bottle. You may need to strain twice to remove the berry sediment. You also can run the strained vodka through a coffee filter to produce a clearer vodka.

5. Now, you are ready to make a new cocktail with your red currant vodka, or you can steal some inspiration from the Absolut Kurant recipes.

6. I like to store my fruit-infused vodka in the refrigerator.

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Polish Soup with Chanterelle Mushrooms (Zupa z Kurek)

One fact that I am finding out quickly is that the Poles love mushrooms!

Lately at the markets  in Warsaw, I’ve see older ladies selling small boxes of the most dainty Chanterelle mushrooms (kurek or kurka in Polish) I’ve ever seen in my life. There’s no sign indicating the price, and I have no clue how to ask in Polish. 

On Saturday at Hala Mirowska (the farmer’s market), I finally found some stalls with prices – 36 zł (about $11 USD) per kilo.

Polish gooseberries also are in season now here in Warsaw!

Last week, I had the most delicious soup made with these seasonal Chanterelle mushrooms at this nearby winebar called Mielżyński. Immediately, I started deciphering the soup’s ingredients - potatoes, carrots, the mushrooms, lots of dill and definitely a touch of heavy cream.

The restaurant version of "Zupa z Kurek."

However, trying to find a proper Polish recipe for Zupa z Kurek proved challenging. On some web sites, kurek translated to taps or cock. Umm, not sure that’s what I wanted to cook.

So I did what any good cook or chef does, I re-created my own recipe. As you know, I love soups because they are easy to make and fill you up. Some recipes called for mushroom broth, but I simply used chicken stock.

My soup recipe below only should take you about one hour to make from start to finish. If there are any Poles out there, please share with me your Zupa z Kurek tips!

Smacznego! (Bon appétit in Polish)

My version of "Zupa z Kurek."

Polish Soup with Chanterelle Mushrooms (Zupa z Kurek)

Ingredients:

250      g.         (9 oz.)              Chanterelle mushrooms (Polish kurek), washed and cleaned

2          Tablespoons                butter

1          ea.                                large onion, small diced

6          ea.                                garlic cloves, chopped small

2          ea.                                carrots, peeled and small sliced

450      g.         (16 oz.)            potatoes, peeled and small sliced

1          L.         (32 oz.)            chicken broth

120     ml.        (1/2 cup)          low-fat milk (For true Polish taste, use heavy cream instead.)

A         small handful                fresh dill, finely chopped

To taste                                   salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Clean the mushrooms. Mine were really dirty so I covered them with warm water. Let stand for a few minutes, then drain and rinse. I even used my salad spinner to get the mushrooms really dry. I kept the mushrooms whole, but you might want to slice in half if you have larger ones.

2. In a medium-sized pot, heat the butter and then sauté the Chanterelle mushrooms 10-15 minutes until softened and some of the extra water is cooked off. Remove the mushrooms with a slotted spoon and set aside.

3.  Add the diced onions and garlic. Sauté until vegetables are softened.

4. Then, add the carrots and potatoes, and cover with chicken stock. Cook over medium-high heat until potatoes are softened, 15-20 minutes. Add the mushrooms during the last five minutes to cook. Season with salt and pepper.

5. Lastly, stir in the dill and milk or cream. This soup tastes great as leftovers as well!

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