Milano Gourmet: A Foodie Shop Opens in Nişantaşı in Istanbul

I've always been on the lookout for yabancı products in Istanbul.

Now, there’s another gourmet shop nearby in Nişantaşı with specialty products such as sesame oil, HP sauce, dulce de leche and most importantly, foreign cheeses, deli meats and beers.

Last month, Milano Gourmet opened up in a corner space formerly occupied by an expensive furniture store. I’ve been watching this space for awhile since I walk by here to get to the metro. Finally, the space is being used for something worthwhile.

 Inside, you’ll find a gigantic refrigerated section filled with tons of Turkish mezze items, Turkish cheese and deli meats as well as Parmesan, mascarpone, gouda, gruyere and Spanish manchego cheeses. (The shop’s selection is very similar to the items at Şütte, which is just a few blocks away.) 

At the far end, you’ll find a tiny section devoted to domuz – yep, pork products get their own corner. Skinny bacon, prosciutto and Italian deli meats live here. The sales guy smiled at me when I asked if the store had domuz.

In the beer section, you’ll find foreign beers such as Duvel, Peroni, Brooklyn Lager, Corona and a few others I didn’t recognize. My beloved Brooklyn Lager does cost 12.50 tl per bottle, but it’s the only place I’ve seen it for sale now. La Cave used to sell it, but doesn’t anymore.

I had originally posted this photo on Instagram when I found my beer.

 Downstairs you’ll find a wine cellar and a small wine bar. That part wasn’t open yet when I last popped into Milano. Looks like you should be able to enjoy a glass of wine or get a bottle to share with friends here after work.

Milano Gourmet also sells olive oils produced in different parts of the Aegean region, squid ink pasta, sushi rice, risotto and Jaime Oliver’s (complete) line of pestos and pasta sauces (which I found a bit odd). However, in case you haven’t heard, Oliver is set to open his first restaurant in Turkey, Jaimie’s Italian, at the mega complex of Zorlu Center in Istanbul later this year.

You never know what you’ll find at Milano Gourmet.

Afiyet olsun!

Location:

Şakayık Sokak, Çınar Apt. No:54/1A

Nişantaşı, Istanbul

Phone: 0212-233-1033

Read More

Taking the Teleferik in Istanbul

Have you ever gone from nowhere to nowhere?

Well, that’s kind of what my husband and I felt like this weekend when we took the teleferik at Maçka Park in Istanbul.

Riding the teleferik (cable car) has been on our Istanbul “bucket list,” and we finally got to cross it off after almost three years of living here. Although the 3-minute ride did offer some great views over the park, I can tell you that you aren’t really missing much if you don’t get to ride the teleferik.

What’s odd is where the teleferik is located, and the fact that it doesn’t connect to or even near another mode of public transportation. But this is hardly surprising here in Istanbul. I’ve had several moments where I thought the city planners (or lack thereof) didn’t think or plan the public transportation stops/connections very well. Burası Türkiye!

Looking out from my "pod" over Maçka Park.

If you walk down from Nişantaşı heading toward the shore road, you will run into the Maçka Park starting point of the teleferik. Using your akbil or with a 3-lira jeton, you can hop on one of the space-ship looking pods. Each pod can hold six people.

We timed our ride so it would be close to sunset and shared our pod with two couples. It was çok romantik! Actually, I can see how young children would really enjoy this short voyage.

The ride takes you about 300 meters above Maçka Park, also called Demokrasi Parkı, which is a pleasant enough park with wooden benches, jogging paths and plenty of greenery.

The ride ends (or also begins depending on you look at it) in Taksim near the “Taşkışla” building of Istanbul Technical University. The Grand Hyatt Hotel also is located on the other side of the street.

A night view of the Taşkışla building of the Istanbul Technical University.

For university students rushing to class, I can see how this cable car provides a convenience to avoid walking all the way around the park – about 10 minutes or so. I wish I had this option when I lived in Nebraska, but my campus was as flat as a pancake.

Seriously, taking the teleferik is one of those only in Istanbul moments I’m glad we experienced together. And the short ride offers a unique panoramic view of this city that I love and will miss greatly!

The cable car, which opened in 1993, runs daily from 8 a.m.-7 p.m.

This is the Taksim entrance/exit of the teleferik in Istanbul.

Here you can see the pulley and brake system that helps operate the teleferik.

Read More

New Neighborhood Concept Opens in Nişantaşı in Istanbul

It’s a shopping mall.

No, it’s a restaurant and beer garden.

No it’s a wine and book store.

There’s a new place in Istanbul that’s actually all of these things. This new high-end gourmet food market, complete with a dozen restaurants, flower shop, wine store, fish market and more all rolled into one, just opened last week. Mahalle, which means neighborhood in Turkish, is located on the top floor of City's Mall in Nişantaşı.

Last week on my way home from the metro, I popped into the top floor of City’s and checked out the newly opened Mahalle. It's strange, expensive but still kinda cool! As one of my expat friends here exclaimed, Mahalle is like the Turkish version of Eataly in NYC!

The gigantic open floor plan contains the likes of NYC Nathan's Hot Dogs (the 1st in Turkey), Günaydın Steakhouse, Wagamama for Asian cuisine, Rigatoni for Italian, Mano Burger for a hamburger and fries, Komşufırın for freshly baked bread, Namlı Şarküteri (without having to go all the way to Eminönü) and Malatya Pazarı for bulk dried fruits and nuts.

It’s like they took many of my favorite stalls around the the Mısır Çarşısı and fancified it all! Honestly, I'd still prefer to go to the former, but it was fun to look around.

You can even get Guinness and Hoegaarden on tap at the small beer garden area in Mahalle!

To complete the neighborhood feel, you’ll also find a baklava stand, a coffeeshop by Caribou Coffee, a (pricey) döner stand by Yanar Döner and a few other random stands throw in at Mahalle.

After you’ve emptied your wallet and filled your stomach or shopping bags, you can even stop by the section called Home Delivery; and what else, but have your bags delivered to your home whenever you choose. You may finally be able to have wine delivered to your front door in Istanbul!

For anyone who's a foodie, Mahalle is worth checking out in Istanbul! 

FYI: tomorrow's blog post will take you back to sunny North Cyprus.

Rigatoni Restaurant located at the new Mahalle in Istanbul.

Warm and comforting ev manti for a cold wintery day!

Not sure how I feel about this very odd selection of döner kebab being offered at Mahalle.

Read More

Christmas in Istanbul’s Nişantaşı neighborhood

It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas everywhere I go in Istanbul!

Now, I know it’s not actually Christmas. Turks do not celebrate Christmas. All the Christmas-y decorations are to celebrate the New Year.

But in my opinion, if it looks like Christmas and acts like Christmas, it’s definitely Christmas!

This is what Abdi İpekçi Caddesi in Nişantaşı looks like right now.

This year will be our first time EVER to celebrate Christmas in Turkey away from our friends and family members back home. We visited the U.S. in October and celebrated an early holiday with them. It seems like plenty of our friends also will be here in Istanbul so I think it’s still going to be a festive time.

I often walk from Beşiktaş up through Nişantaşı to get to the metro stop at Osmanbey. I started noticing all the Christmas decorations about two weeks ago. This week, I took a longer stroll through Nişantaşı and took photos of all the decorated storefront windows. You'll also find plenty of stores that are selling (often) overpriced, imported Christmas decorations.

Mudo Concept is by far the best location where you can buy Christmas decorations and trees. But again, these items come with a price tag. For example, a 5-foot tree was 275 tl!

Walking through Nişantaşı, you would never even know you are in Turkey! This wealthier neighborhood features all the fancy-pants stores of Cartier, Tiffany, Prada, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, etc. I swear you’d almost think you were on 5^th Avenue in my beloved NYC!

Nişantaşı is by far not your typical Turkish neighborhood. There are a couple places I like to frequent such as Kantin, a lokanta known for its incredible, seasonal food; Mama’s and Cento per Cento for decent Italian-style pizza; Şütte for its Italian domuz and imported cheeses and Bahar Pastanesi for its divine pastries.

But right now, Nişantaşı is a lovely place to stroll through and enjoy the Christmas lights, trees and decorations. 

It makes an expat like myself feel right at home in Istanbul.

All Happy Days is a cute store to wander through. I like to look but not buy!

Beymen is a fancy Turkish department-like store.

Damas - a jewelry store.

Another Christmas-y store window located on Şakayık Sokak.

At Lovells, located on Güzelbahçe Sokak, you can buy holiday chocolates.

This chocolate store is located directly across the street from Lovells.

Many of the Christmas items, like this one at Nezih Bookstore, are in English. This store actually has some cheap Christmas ornaments.

I thought this photo was funny with all the Efes beer kegs located outside the fancy restaurants and stores in Nişantaşı.

Red and green champagne glasses at Pasabahce. This is like a Crate & Barrell store. I love it!

Vakko's decorated storefront window.

Read More

Balkabağı Çorbası/Turkish Pumpkin Soup with Cumin Yogurt

Often while dining out, I get inspired to make my own version of a particular dish. Or I dissect said dish and figure out the ingredients and spices so I can replicate the food at home.

Recently, I enjoyed a light lunch with a friend at Kantin in Nişantaşı. This cute cafe is always bumping at lunchtime and serves an ever-changing menu focused on seasonal ingredients. For our first course, we both ordered the daily soup which was balkabağı çorbası (pumpkin soup).

Kantin's Turkish pumpkin soup was garnished with a dollop of yogurt, fresh oregano and ground black pepper.

For the last two months or so in Istanbul, I've often walked by small wooden stands set up in the streets or on sidewalks where a Turkish guy is cutting up fresh balkabağı (literally translates to "honey squash".) Usually, he must use a long, hand saw to cut through the tough, greenish-blue exterior.

Just off Valikonağı Caddesi in Nişantaşı, the pumpkin guy sets up his stall near the artichoke-peeling guy while across the street a second pumpkin guy holds his corner by the fresh juice guy. (I never understand the Turkish concept of setting up like-minded stalls literally right next to each other.)

Anyway, I bought a kilo of balkabağı at the Saturday pazar in Beşiktaş. I love the fact that the guys will cut AND peel the pumpkin for you! At home, I made a delicious, spicy, cumin-scented pumpkin soup, which only lasted 2 days, followed by a curry-based cauliflower soup. 'Tis the season for soup!

With the snow blowing outside here in Istanbul, it's a perfect time to make this wintery balkabağı çorbası. And, trust me, the fried garlic chips are worth the extra effort!

Afiyet olsun!

My version of  balkabağı çorbası at home in Istanbul.

Balkabağı Çorbası/Turkish Pumpkin Soup with Cumin Yogurt

Ingredients:

2          T.                                 vegetable or olive oil

1          med.                            onion, diced small

4-6       cloves                          garlic, roughly chopped

1          T.                                 cumin

1          kilo      (2.2 lbs.)          balkabağı (pumpkin), cut into 1-inch cubes

2          med.                            yellow potatoes, cut into small cubes

1          L.         (33. 8 oz.)        chicken stock or water

To taste                                   pul biber (red chili flakes), salt and freshly ground black pepper

120      ml.       (1/2 c.)             low-fat milk (Substitute whole milk or heavy cream for a richer taste.)

For garnish:                 Cumin yogurt - To make, stir in a good pinch of cumin powder and salt to (low-fat) yogurt and season to taste.

                                    Fried garlic chips (Note: mine only took about 30 seconds to fry. Strain immediately and place on paper towel to absorb extra grease.)

1.         In a large stockpot, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add onion and saute about five minutes, until softened.

2.         Add the garlic and cumin powder. Cook for just a few minutes. Then add the pumpkin and potato chunks, stirring with a large spoon and cook for a few more minutes.

3.         Then, add the stock or water. Add a dash of pul biber, salt and black pepper. Cover the pot with a lid and let simmer for about 20-30 minutes, until the pumpkin is soft.

4.         When finished cooking, add the milk. Using a hand immersion blender, puree the soup until smooth. Taste and adjust the seasonings as necessary.

5.         To serve, ladle the hot soup into warmed bowls. Garnish with a dollop of the cumin yogurt and a sprinkling of the fried garlic chips. (Watch your husband eat said soup in amazement!)

Read More

Winter Wonderland in Beşiktaş

Nestled between busy Beşiktaş and Nişantaşı, currently covered in snow, lies an area the sultans once used as vineyards, a recreation area, meeting places and a private garden.

Yesterday, I visited the Ihlamur Kasrı (Pavilion of the Linden Tree) so I could photograph the lovely snow in this park. I walk by this park at least once a week and often have admired the park's changing foliage, but never stopped. We've even several weddings taking place here on the warm weekends.

January 2012 snowfall in Istanbul's Ihlamur Kasrı.

The Ihlamur Pavilion, dating back to the early 1700s, sits in a small, wooded valley in Beşiktaş and just behind Nişantaşı. According to the signs, this area was a vineyard belonging to the superintendent of the Naval Arsenal Hacı Ağa during the reign of Sultan Ahmed III (1703-1730). Then, it was converted into a hasbahçe - a private garden for the Sultan.

It's hard to believe the Ihlamur Kasrı is preserved right here in the middle of Istanbul! 

During the reigns of Sultan Selim III (1789-1808) and Sultan Mahmud II (1808-1839), people practiced archery here. Later, Sultan Abdulmecid (1839-1861) came here frequently to host his guests in the pavilions, with the current two stone pavilions dating to the 1850s.

Back in the day, the Sultan had several of these little kasrs (pavilions or almost mini-palaces) dotted around the city just in case he needed to relax and get away from it all. Guess, the summer palaces located along the Bosphorus weren't enough back then!

I wonder what the pavilion looks like inside here.

Now, you can visit the Ihlamur Kasrı and Gardens during daytime hours for just 1 TL. You will find various trees such as ginko bilboa as well as bay, linden, magnolia trees and cypresses. There's also a cafe open during the weekends if you want to enjoy brunch or have a tea outside during warmer weather.

As you can see, the garden's roses are frozen in bloom and covered in snow. I certainly prefer to see the roses blooming when the sun is shining and the weather is a bit warmer.

Roses + snow = Wintertime in Istanbul

Maybe it will stop snowing in Istanbul tonight?

Guess these Turkish ducks don't mind the snow. =)

The rose reaches for the sun beneath a blanket of snow in Istanbul.

Read More