Showing posts with label Warsaw. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Warsaw. Show all posts

Saturday, December 30, 2017

Greetings from Sofia, Bulgaria! We are on the last leg of our holiday trip in Eastern Europe, and I thought I would share a few photos.

We decided to close out the year with a 10-day trip to three capitals – Budapest, Bucharest and Sofia. I think the trip has been a HUGE (bigly/awesome) success, and we really enjoyed Bucharest more than we thought we would.

Since we moved abroad in 2010, we’ve learned it is better to visit our friends and family members in the U.S. at any other time of the year than Christmas. In December, the flights are more expensive, the airports are chaotic, the roads are terrible, and we often have dealt with a ton of snow – like what the U.S. East Coast is getting the brunt of now. To make our expat lives easier, we visit the U.S. either in the spring or the fall. Next year, we might even make two trips as some family members are getting older and we want to spend some precious time with them.

Anyway, our first stop was in Budapest. We visited this lovely city twice in 2014, but haven’t been back until now. Funny enough, friends we met in Istanbul were spending Christmas there, so we met up to celebrate an expat Christmas together. We also were able to see some of hubby’s former Warsaw colleagues.
After three sunny days in Budapest, we flew to Bucharest with a 1-hour layover in Warsaw. We had just enough time to enjoy a plate of pierogies at the airport and buy some Polish kabanos sausages and Wedel chocolates.

Exploring Bucharest over two days meant discovering buildings that reminded us of the Barouque architecture of Paris, a few hints of Ottoman and Byzantine architecture and plenty of ugly, concrete Communist blocks too. Bucharest is definitely a city of contrasts. I’ll have to share more photos soon after edits. Also, Bucharest had a lovely and much-bigger-than-expected Christmas market!
From Bucharest, we decided to take a 10-hour train across the border to visit Sofia, Bulgaria. Buying the train ticket and the experience onboard was an adventure in itself, and a story I’ll need to tell in more detail later. At least we had a bag filled with wine and snacks for the journey.
One of the older Romanian trains. Luckily, this one was not our train. ;)
Sofia seems to have more Ottoman-era touches and plenty of Orthodox churches. Here a church, there a church, everywhere a church. Also, the city has a prettier feel than Bucharest…I’m guessing it wasn’t bombed as heavily as Bucharest was during WWII.
Inside Sveta Nedelya, an ornate Orthodox Church in Sofia.
I paid 5lev so I could take photos inside.
I’ll close for now as hubby is getting inpatient with me dealing with social media while we are on vacation. Ha ha!

Wherever you are, I wish you a wonderful New Year filled with adventure!
Joy


My Traveling Joys

Sunday, January 24, 2016

After travelling nearly nonstop for a month and having visitors here in Australia, I’m lagging a bit behind in writing my annual foodie blog post.

This past year, we enjoyed a few more European trips, with Belgrade, Serbia, being a surprisingly wonderful foodie destination, plus several good meals in Warsaw. In June, we left Poland after living there for 27 months and started a new expat journey in Melbourne. Although we’ve eaten out quite a bit Down Under, I can’t say that any meals have really wowed me yet. Aussies do breakfast fantastically well, and there are tons of ethnic options like Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Vietnamese and Malyasian. I’ve even been cooking a lot more Asian dishes at home since the ingredients are easy to find here.

The following destinations are where we had some of our Best Meals in 2015! Where did you have your favorite meal this year? I would love to know!

Bon appétit!
Joy

January: L’enfant Terrible in Warsaw
In January, I kicked off the year with a group of friends at one of Warsaw’s newer fine dining restaurants called L’enfant Terrible. Chef Michał Bryś, who had worked at European Michelin-starred restaurants, has since received accolades and his restaurant was recommended by the first Polish edition of the Gault & Millaut guide. Unfortunately, I can’t remember what the dishes are that we had and I didn’t take a copy of the menu. Some dishes were good like the tender beef for my main dish, but the foie gras macaron appetizer was a bit odd and so was the bacon-solar system course. 
At 350zl (about $100usd at the time), this was the most expensive meal I’ve had in the Polish capital.

February: Fancy French Food in Warsaw
We experienced a phenomenal dining experience thanks to a visiting 2-Michelin Star chef from France. Besides dining at Nolita again for my birthday, this special 7-course degustation menu by Chef Olivier Nasti, MOF, was THE best meal we’ve eaten here. The event was hosted by the Sofitel Warsaw Victoria and sponsored by AirFrance so we sampled some fantastic French wines (at a bargain) as well. The main entrée was roasted pigeon smothered in black truffles and served with a dollop of celeriac puree. I love truffles! I also love chocolate and dessert number 1 was a rich, dark chocolate mille feuille with coffee ice cream. You can read more about our fancy French meal in this post.
Wonderful Winebar in London
In February, we also travelled to London because my husband had some work meetings and I tagged along. Over the weekend, we ate at a cozy winebar called Brawn, located on Columbia Road (near the Sunday flower market) in Bethnal Green. We ordered several dishes to share, and my favorite was a ball of Buffalo Mozzarella with smoked aubergine puree and lemon. I could have licked the plate clean. I tried grilled duck hearts for the first time (kind of taste like liver) served on top a creamy polenta, perfect hearty food on a winter’s night. For a main dish, we shared the confit pork belly with Puy lentils and root vegetables. How could I resist some pork!
March: Classic Viennese Café
In March, we spent a short weekend in Vienna to celebrate our fifth wedding anniversary together. Of course, we had to check out some of the historic cafés in Austria’s capital city. We had a late lunch at Café Central, open since1876; and in the late 19th century, it became a key meeting place for the Viennese intellectual scene. Former customers include Leon Trotsky, Josip Broz Tito (first president of Yugoslavia), Sigmund FreudAdolf Hitler and Vladimir Lenin.
Besides the beautiful architecture, what makes you ohh and ahh is the pastry display case, which is filled with all kinds of tempting sweet tooth pleasures. I had a difficult time choosing just one pastry to share with my husband after a simple lunch of beef tartare and soup. Which one would you pick?
April: Balkan Delights in Belgrade
In April, we spent the long Easter weekend in Belgrade with our Istanbul friends. I fell in love with this city’s architecture – a mix of Austrian, European and even some Ottoman influences – and the food scene. The food reminded me of trips to Greece, Turkey and Croatia as well as the modern touches which would be compatible in NYC. Our local Airbnb host recommended our last lunch destination called Manufaktura, which is owned by Dušan Ivković, considered the godfather of Serbian basketball and now the head coach of the Turkish Anadolu Efes team. 
Manufaktura is housed in an old building with lofty ceilings and an open floor plan filled with high bar tables and a charcuterie display case that will make you swoon! Seeing all the cured pig’s legs reminded me of Italy! This popular restaurant serves Serbian food with modern touches. Must-try dishes include ćevapi (small sausage-like grilled portions of minced meat), sopska salata (a salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, onion and cheese which is very similar to the Turkish Çoban Salatası), any of the locally-cured meats, and baklava for dessert.
May: Fine Dining in Warsaw
In May, I was spoiled with a birthday lunch and a multi-course dinner at Nolita where we had the dined the previous year for my birthday as I wrote about in this blog post. Nolita is hands-down my favorite fine-dining restaurant in Warsaw; and honestly, an international bargain for the food you receive – 6 courses for 235zl (then about $75 and now $57usd). My favorite course this time was a foie gras bon bon that I likened to a rich peanut butter and jelly combo. Again, I wanted to lick the plate clean!
June: Farewell Fiesta with Girlfriends
After throwing our own going-away, Mexican-themed party, I took some time to hang out with girlfriends. One of my farewell lunches was at one of my favorite Warsaw winebars, Alewino, tucked in behind an archway off fashion lane of ulica Mokotowska. The chalkboard menu always features seasonal items with a beet salad of some kind that’s delicious no matter how it’s prepared.
I love talking to the knowledgeable staff (in English) about the wines, particularly an incredible Hungarian selection! The truffled risotto and stuffed zucchini flowers are two of my favorite dishes when in season.
July: Tassie’s Simple Seafood
Once Down Under, we hit the road running to travel around our new home country. We spent a weekend exploring the southeast corner of Tasmania, a beautiful, lush, wild island. Perched on a hill beside a vineyard, Bangor Wine & Oyster Shed, about 45-minutes outside of Hobart, is the perfect place to enjoy a simple seafood lunch. We ordered freshly shucked oysters served three different ways with three tangy dressings and abalone sautéed in butter and garlic served with a brandied mayonnaise lettuce salad and of course, a chilled bottle of local Pinot Gris. All we had to do was sit back, sip some wine and enjoy the lovely views!
October: Paris is Always a Good Idea
In October, we ventured back to Europe for a few weeks and were able to celebrate a belated wedding anniversary with my brother and sister-in-laws in Paris. We treated ourselves to a new 1 Michelin-starred restaurant called Les Climats, located on the left bank. Considering its star status, the tasting menu priced at 5 courses for 98 euros was a decent bargain, at least in the City of Lights. This Art Deco restaurant features French cuisine with modern touches and is devoted to an immense collection of wines from the Burgundy region.

For the first course, Chef Julien Boscus served us crab seasoned with fresh herbs and pil pil sauce, octopus carpaccio, beef chorizo and multicolored cauliflower. The second course, one of my favorite, was a fillet of wild sea bream in a bread crust with mushrooms, fresh walnuts and red orach. The main course was a Scottish goose breast with Chasselas grapes, wild mushrooms, Swiss chard, chicory and straw potatoes. Unfortunately, we didn’t like the modern interpretation of the cheese course with fresh muscat grapes, red porto and Pinot Noir.
So our very generous server brought over the full cheese cart and let us choose several French cheeses to have instead.

Then, we ended up having two delectable dessert courses: pears poached in turmeric and caraway with pecans and pear sorbet; followed by a chocolate confection of guanaja biscuit with Tonka beans, caramelized hazelnuts, coffee Chantilly and chocolate sorbet. Oh my! And if those weren’t enough, we ended this amazing meal with a plate of petit fours and chocolates!
December: Shoreside Seafood in New Zealand
We ended 2015 with a 6-day holiday in New Zealand. After taking the ferry boat from Picton across the Cook Straight, we immediately settled in for lunch at Shed 5 in Wellington. This former woolshed that faces the harbor was recommended by fellow foodie and blogger friend, Meg of Notorious MEG, who lived in Welly for several months.

Along with a bottle of Marlborough Sav-Blanc, we ordered six oysters and three seafood appetizers to share. My favorite was a ceviche salad of flash cured tuna and Akaroa salmon with cherry tomatoes, mozzarella, avocado mousse and olive oil caviar.
When visiting picturesque New Zealand, you can’t help but indulge in the local wines and fresh seafood!

Where did you enjoy your favorite meal in 2015?

My Traveling Joys

Wednesday, December 9, 2015

It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas at least in Poland!


I finally put together a post about some of my favorite Polish Christmas decorations and gift ideas, particularly handmade ones. Even if you don’t live in Warsaw, I have provided several online store recommendations as well. So now you bring a little bit of Poland into your home like we have!


Pierniki
One of the most popular Polish decorations is made from gingerbread (pierniki). You’ll find gingerbread hearts, snowmen, angels, trees, trains, snowflakes and more at the slightly-hidden Tebe shop located along busy Aleja Jerozolimskie. You can even buy edible gingerbread spoons that you can dip into your morning cup of coffee or tea.

Whenever I’ve popped into Tebe, the couple who run the shop are quite friendly and help me find the ornament I want. They use only natural ingredients to make the pierniki dough, which is baked and then decorated with dozens of different types of seeds, dried flowers and fruits. For example, red lentils outline the stars and poppyseeds make up the snowmen’s hat.
Bombki
Another popular item that most Americans will recognize are colorful, blown-glass ornaments, known as bombki. Following WWII, bombki appeared on the market again and became a major export for Poland. In the U.S., you’ll find these traditional ornaments at large department stores such as Dillards and Macy’s, but they will cost you about 5 times or more than what I’ve paid here in Poland.

I bought my bombki from Bombkarnia, across the street from the Palace of Culture, which is open year-round and also sells pretty Easter egg ornaments in the spring. Note to European and American readers, Bombkarnia does have an online store and ships all over the world, so you can have your own Polish glass ornaments at home!
Handmade items
Thirdly, I couldn’t resist buying several handmade, crocheted snowflakes at Cepelia’s Centrum location. My grandmother often used to knit and crochet so these Old World items remind me of her and would make lovely Christmas presents too. Cepelia, which also has an online store in English, is a national foundation under the Minister of Culture and Art that promotes Polish folk and artistic handicrafts. Most ornaments are reasonably priced between 10-20 pln (about $3-$6.)
Polish Ceramics
Even if you've never been to Poland, I'm sure you've seen or heard about Polish pottery. You’ll find the ever popular Polish pottery being used in all kinds of Christmas décor from serving plates to cake stands as well as Christmas ornaments and candle holders. I love visiting the friendly, English-speaking Anna at Anka Pottery in Mokotow. Anna will happily ship to the U.S. and will fulfill orders for particular patterns too. I can also recommend buying pottery from the Cepelia stores and Bolesławiec Pottery, which is near the Rondo Onz tram stop.

Additionally, if you live in the U.S., you can contact my friend, Donna, who used to live in Warsaw and now owns a Polish pottery business in Texas. You can order from her online store at Touch of Poland.

Polish Cookbooks
Wherever we have lived, I love learning how to cook the local dishes. Below, you'll find a few of my favorite Polish cookbooks, which you can directly order from Amazon.com. Applebaum's book is one of my favorites because the Polish recipes are practical and adapted to more modern tastes. Both Rose Petal Jam and Sugared Orange are not only filled with beautiful, seasonal photos from around Poland, but also delicious recipes. A great gift for the cook in your family!


Polish Jewellery
In Poland, you'll find a variety of handmade jewellery, with Baltic amber stones being the most popular. I also like the handcrafted ceramic and wooden beaded necklaces that you'll often find at local Christmas markets.
Journals
My niece is into writing in journals, so I bought her several cool Polish-looking notebooks from Empik bookstores and Bęc Zmiana Foundation in Warsaw.
Polish Food
When all else fails, give your loved ones popular Polish food and beverages. You can't go wrong with gifting Polish vodka or kabanos, at least not with most of my friends and family members! And you can even buy these items at the airport!

Which Polish gift would you like to receive for Christmas?

My Traveling Joys

Monday, July 20, 2015

This week, one of Warsaw’s most iconic buildings, the Palace of Culture and Science (Pałac Kultury i Nauki), turns 60 years old on Wednesday, July 22nd.

It’s a building, the tallest one in Poland at 231 meters, that people either love or hate.
As we called Warsaw home for 27 months, I saw the Palace of Culture every day from our balcony, except on really foggy days. I happen to rather like this skyscraper that lit up the city’s business center in different colors every night, which reminded me of the Empire State Building in my beloved NYC. It’s a building I photographed many, many times while we lived in Warsaw as you can see from the photographs in this blog post.
Balcony margaritas to celebrate Cinco de Mayo in Warsaw.
Where is the Palace of Culture?
 
However, the building, originally named in honor of Joseph Stalin, was considered a “gift” from the Soviet Union to Poland after the Communists took over following World War II. For obvious reasons, many Poles dislike what the building represents and the fact it was built in the middle of the city where people lived in burnt-out tenement buildings following WWII.
Stalin's name was erased from the statue on the right after the Communist regime fell in 1989 in Warsaw.
Construction on the palace lasted three years, and the doors were open to the public on July 22, 1955, with a special ribbon cutting ceremony. (Click here to see PKiN photos from 1955.)

Little do most Poles know that the building’s design was partially based on some Polish architecture.

Designed by Soviet architect Lev Rudnev, the palace is similar in style to his main campus building for Moscow University, based on Socialist Classicism, and others built during the same era in Riga, Latvia, and Russia.  However, Rudnev also travelled to Polish historical sites in Kraków, Zamość, Kazimierz, Torun and Sandomierz to study Polish renaissance architecture, resulting in the spiky “Polish parapets” that decorate the roof of the building. (I learned this fact from a private tour with Orange Umbrella in Warsaw. I can highly recommend arranging your own private tour!)
A misty view of the "Palace of Culture" in Riga during our November 2014 Baltic Road Trip.
This picture depicts the spiky “Polish parapets.” 
To celebrate the Place of Culture’s 60th birthday this week, there will be special events on Wednesday from 12-17:00, concluding with a birthday cake cutting ceremony at 5 p.m. If you want to participate in the fun on the eve of the 22nd, people are encouraged to buy entry tickets to the observation deck of the Palace of Culture from the lobby entrance along ul. Marszalkowska. More details can be found here.

In addition to the special events on Wednesday, there is an anniversary exhibit which includes architectural models, furniture, audio devices, uniforms, key rings and vintage paraphernalia once used in the building. This exhibit runs through July 31st.
Thirdly, there is a special photo exhibit by local Polish photographer Jacek Fota  running from July 22 until August 26, which features the interior and people that work in the Palace of Culture.

Here are some interesting tidbits about the palace:
  • has 44 floors. On the 30th floor, at a height of 114 meters, there is an observation deck that is open to the public. (This is my favorite place to take guests and give them a bird’s eye view of Warsaw. Don't miss out on this observation deck when you visit Warsaw!)
  • has 3,288 rooms inside.
  • is the home of several public institutions, a movie theater, sports club and local museums.
  • takes 40 million zl to maintain every year.
  • the Polish government paid about 160 million zl for its construction during the 1950s.
  • tontains an indoor swimming pool, “secret rooms” and a sanctuary for cats on level-2
  • Did you also know that the Rolling Stones and Elton John have played at the Sala Kongresowa here?
Though the Palace of Culture may be either loved or despised, the building represents a part of Warsaw’s past. This week is the time to remember the city’s history and pay tribute to its future.

Happy Birthday to the Palace of Culture in Warsaw!

By the way, the interior of the palace is just as impressive as the exterior!
Spring and Winter views of the Palace of Culture in Warsaw.
Northern view during winter from the observation deck at the Palace of Culture in Warsaw.
Southern view from the observation deck at the Palace of Culture in Warsaw.
View of Old Town from the observation deck at the Palace of Culture in Warsaw.