Showing posts with label Zakopane. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Zakopane. Show all posts

Monday, February 9, 2015


As we neared the peak of Mount Giewont, I stopped. I was on the verge of hyperventilating. I hung onto the handgrips carved into the mountain with all my strength and tried to control my ragged breathing.

One minute passed. Maybe two minutes.

I was scared shitless, but at that point, quitting wasn’t really an option. This trail section was one-way at a steep 75-degree angle and lined by a heavy chain pathway. The only way to escape was to keep climbing and pulling myself up. My husband was already ahead of me, so he couldn’t help me get down either.

About 5 minutes earlier, a girl around age 12 had simply scampered up the mountain path following her father. If she could do it, surely I could, I thought. 

Oh how I wish I were young and fearless again!

If I had known that climbing Mount Giewont would have been this difficult, I probably would not have done so. Instead, I went in blindly, figuring it wouldn’t be any different from other hiking trips we’ve done in Poland.
My view from the top of Mount Giewont.
How wrong and inexperienced I was! But at least, I was wearing the proper hiking gear, including a pair of gloves and a winter hat. Even during the middle of summer, the mountain peaks in the Tatras were chilly and some peaks still were covered in snow!
Sign pointing to the last 40 minutes of hell.
On the right is the path we had to take to reach the top and looks deceptively easier in this photo!
After hiking about 20 km the day before in Morskie Oko, my muscles were straining to keep up. Small rocks slid out from under my hiking boots as I slowly inched my up the mountain. Larger rocks were damp and a thick cloud of moisture hung in the air.

Finally, my painstakingly trek was rewarded with a marvelous view over the town of Zakopane and the surrounding Tatra Mountains. I paused a moment and then sat down on some of the large boulders as far away from the jawdropping edge as possible. No handrails here!
On top of the 1894-meter summit is a gigantic, steel cross, constructed by the local Highlanders. A plaque on the cross reads: “To Jesus Christ, from the Highlanders of Zakopane. 1900.” I wonder how the heck those Highlanders carried all that heavy metal up to the mountain’s peak!
We rested at the top of Mount Giewont for about 10-15 minutes, long enough to catch my breath and to have a small snack. Apparently, other hikers thought it was a good time to have a drink because that’s what I’d like to do when I’m near the edge of death!

Soon, our clear view of Zakopane was covered up by a fast rolling mist. We quickly decided we didn’t want to be anywhere near that giant lightening rod on top of the mountain in case a storm was on its way!
My descent was 10 times easier than my ascent to the top. I even paused a moment on the heavy chains so hubby could take a photo of me. See, I can do it!
Our total hike took a little over 5 hours. I’m pleased I climbed to the top Mount Giewont simply to say I accomplished that, but I doubt I’ll ever do it again.

Would you climb up Mount Giewont?

3 lessons learned from climbing Mount Giewont:


  • Make sure you’re not standing at the top during a thunderstorm!
  • Do not climb Mount Giewont if you are afraid of heights!
  • Wear the proper hiking gear. Tennis shoes do not count! The trail is rocky and slippery in many places.

We passed this pretty green valley during our hike to Mount Giewont.
This looked like a fun lodge to stay in along the trail.

Wednesday, February 4, 2015

During the winter months, most tourists visit the Zakopane region in southern Poland for its skiing and snowcapped mountains.

Well, we went in the middle of summer for the bacon, oscypek cheese and the beautiful hiking trails in the mountains. Honestly, the bacon just happened to be an accidental benefit!

One of the highlights of our summer trip to Zakopane was hiking to Morskie Oko, which means “Eye of the Sea,” the largest lake in the Tatra Mountains located deep within the Tatra National Park. Local legend claims it was named as such because the lake was connected to the sea via an underground passage. Interesting!
Me taking a break at Morskie Oko.
The roundtrip hike to Morkskie Oko is 18 km (11 miles) from the nearest road where we parked our car. The lake is bardzo popular so many mini-buses from Zakopane travel here as well.

Honestly, most of the hiking trail wasn’t that interesting since it’s a long, paved blacktop, but you are surrounded by lots of greenery. However, one stretch did have us climbing over some tricky boulders to join the next section of the trail. And if you don’t want to walk the whole way, there are horse-drawn carriages that will take you about 7.5 km one way for a nominal fee (about 30pln or $10).
I wish we had opted for the horses, at least for the uphill hike, because my legs were on fire the next day!

Once you reach the lake, you enter through a small pass and then you are entirely surrounded by the mountains. Morskie Oko, with its clear blue-green waters, stands before you in all its natural beauty. The lake covers about 35 hectacres and looks as if it’s occupying a huge crater.
Unfortunately, on the day we arrived at Morskie Oko, the skies were overcast and depressingly gray, which later turned into a little bit of rain.

Still, the lake is beautiful! In fact, last year, the Wall Street Journal called Morskie Oko “a hidden gem” and one of the world’s great lakes.

We admired the lake, took a bunch of photos and opted not to walk around the entire lake because of the uncooperative weather.
The hut of the Polish Tourist Country-Lovers' Society (PTTK) is located close to the lake and is the oldest chalet in the Tatras. 
After our looong hike, we decided to visit Slovakia – just because we could! We literally drove across the border (about 15 km/9.5 miles) and stopped in the tiny town of Ždiar, situated between the mountains of the Belianske Tatra and Spišská Magura.
Ždiar looks quite lovely, doesn't it?
We stopped at the chalet-looking Penzion Kamzik where our friendly waiter served us some hearty Slovakian food and local pilsner beers. We warmed up with two bowls of super garlicky soup (cesnaková polievka), which reminded us of a similar soup we’ve tried in Budapest. I ordered a “vegetarian” dish which was cheese dumplings with bacon bits (bryndzové halušky so slaninkou). I didn’t know that vegetarians like bacon! Well, at least they do in Slovakia!
Because everything tastes better with bacon!
We really enjoyed our summer weekend in the Tatras and would love to return during the winter season. I just wish the trip didn’t take six hours by car from Warsaw.
These funky Polish haystacks (stogi siana) around Zakopane reminded me of Cousin Itt from the Addams Family TV show.
These Polish haystacks were even taller than me!
I absolutely loved this smoky, salty oscypek cheese from the Zakopane region. It's usually served sliced, grilled and topped with a dollop of tangy cranberry jam!